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Jonathan Skubis

How to Make Stall Bars

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Jonathan Skubis

I started GB about 7 months ago and then the pandemic hit and all the gyms closed. Being that all my business travel was cancelled and I had some free time I went overboard and did a whole tutorial on how to build your own Stall Bars. I hope you all find it useful and let me know if you have any questions. You can find the detailed instructions and video here: https://www.jfskubis.com/post/how-to-make-stall-bars

I hope it adds some value to your training! I know you all probably love GB as much as I do and don't want to see an end to your progress!

 

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James Strack

Nice job.

Here is another version some guy did.  I wonder if there are gymnastic guidelines, like he does his every 6 inches for the steps, but is it supposed to be something else?  I like the pull up bar addition in this one on the top.

https://www.garagegymreviews.com/diy-stall-bars#

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James Strack
Posted (edited)

Ok, because I have a lower ceiling height I decided to use a plan with dimensions like.

https://www.thebeamstore.com/28-swedish-stall-bars-commercial-grade-sale#

Which is 11 dowels that are 8.5" apart.  Actually that doesn't make sense, math-wise.  LoL.  Their picture shows 11, but it is 9 in the description, must've used wrong pic on website.  I found 1 1/4" diam 36" length Hardwood Maple dowels at https://www.caseyswood.com/ that someone else in forums recommended for almost half price of what other places have dowels.  $53.70 shipping included.

I will prob just use dimensional lumber at lowes for 2"x8"x8' and just cut it to 78".

As long as I can do everything that is required for foundations I won't worry about a longer one.  If it is a factor I'm 5'9" tall.

James

Edited by James Strack

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James Strack

After watching some of the stall bar videos, I noticed there is walking up the stall bars on the bottom to increase stretch.  So, I should probably keep them spaced 6 inches apart.  I already ordered the 11 dowels that are maple.  I think I'll use them for the bottom of the stall bar and put some poplar I get at home depot to finish the top portion.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but the bottom part is what takes the biggest abuse?

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MARIO LOPEZ RUIZ

Regarding stall bars, does someome know a version that does not require it to be attached to the wall? Something like a power rack but for stall bars

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James Strack
Posted (edited)

I ended up using the plans from https://www.garagegymreviews.com/diy-stall-bars# but I went with the 3 foot width.  I'm not a carpenter by any stretch of imagination so if I can do it anyone can.  I ended up using 11 maple dowels from https://www.caseyswood.com/ and because I wanted it longer picked up 3 more oak dowels from lowes.

Even have the band-aid shot though cut myself with hand saw.  Rubbed some dirt on it and kids applied band-aid.  LoL.

The thing I am most worried about with it, is the dimensional lumber I used 2x10x8 had some knots in it that no matter how I planned the cuts I got one serious weak point that I probably won't use that rung towards the top with the knot at the edge.  The lumber choices at Lowes were not great that day.  If you pay more, you could get more quality boards or do what the other guy did and use plywood that is glued together I suppose.

I will say though I can't stress enough to measure precisely.  I measured 4 times for the hole placement, and think I had to fix it being off 3 times.  LoL.

stall2.jpg

stall3.jpg

stall4.jpg

stall5.jpg

stall.jpg

Edited by James Strack
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Benjamin Renaud

@James Strack that's a decent build, how are they holding up?

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James Strack

Well fine but if I get a backstrap I'll probably reinforce with a brace of some sort the rungs it will be on.  Dangling at a angle with full body weight makes me nervous. 

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Nick Murray

Suggestions from when I built mine.

  • Use hardwood for the backing boards (the ones that attach to the wall).
  • Mount them higher, maybe just below rung 2. This reduces the leverage on the backing board, especially if you are hanging from the top rung.
  • Use much wider backing boards, enabling you to use two or more coach screws (or whichever mounting hardware you are using) into the wall studs.
  • Screw an L -bracket underneath the offset part where the top rung sits. This should guard against any splitting from the inside corner.
  • Screw into the back of each rung to stop them from rotating.
  • Don't varnish them initially. It made mine a bit slippery :(

I hope your hand heals. I have a drop saw, and it terrifies me every time I use it.

 

 

 

 

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