Wood Dowel Size - Suggestions?

[Kevin Easton]

I was at Canadian Tire today and they have some Popular Dowels that were 1 3/4" diameter.

Poplar is a soft hardwood which is a bit concerning.  The 1 3/4 dowels felt a bit thick too.

Stall Bar Construction:

For someone 220lbs can you suggest a dowel diameter for me?

I am going to try and order some custom oak, or maple dowels for extra strength over the poplar. 

[Mark Schoenhard]

If you go with oak, especially red oak, no need to get thicker than 1 3/8".  It is also important how you face the grain of the dowel when installed.

[Ryan Bailey]

Hey guys,

I used red oak. 1.25". ~33.5" wide.

I recommend thicker, or stronger rungs however, at least for myself if I had to do it again.

Mark, do you think my 1.25" bars are good enough, or too narrow?

 

[Kevin Easton]

21 minutes ago, Mark Schoenhard said:

If you go with oak, especially red oak, no need to get thicker than 1 3/8".  It is also important how you face the grain of the dowel when installed.

Mark, can you elaborate on how to face the grain of the dowel when installing them?

[Mark Schoenhard]

9 minutes ago, Ryan Bailey said:

Hey guys,

I used red oak. 1.25". ~33.5" wide.

I recommend thicker, or stronger rungs however, at least for myself if I had to do it again.

Mark, do you think my 1.25" bars are good enough, or too narrow?

 

The stall bars I built use 1 3/8" dowels at 36" width on the inside of the supports.  This works for me at 150 lbs., also works for my 200 lbs. friend that uses the same apparatus.  I feel 1 1/4" at 33 1/2" should suffice. 

 

6 minutes ago, Kevin Easton said:

Mark, can you elaborate on how to face the grain of the dowel when installing them?

First, to save a little money I only used four red oak dowels and placed them 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th from the bottom.  The rest are poplar.  Oak has a tight, straight grain and I face the grain horizontal (===) and even slightly turned up to the ceiling since that is where the direction the main force comes from feet together positions.  Poplar dowels are trickier to get the grain facing properly. I plan on switching out some of the other poplar dowels over time.

[Kevin Easton]

 

57 minutes ago, Mark Schoenhard said:

First, to save a little money I only used four red oak dowels and placed them 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th from the bottom.  The rest are poplar.  Oak has a tight, straight grain and I face the grain horizontal (===) and even slightly turned up to the ceiling since that is where the direction the main force comes from feet together positions.  Poplar dowels are trickier to get the grain facing properly. I plan on switching out some of the other poplar dowels over time.

Interesting.

I am just starting on Foundations 1, so I am not too sure what lies ahead in regards to the need for stall bars.  Using a combination of poplar and hardwood dowels may be an interesting way to save some cash.  Any particular reason you picked dowels 3, 4, 5, and 6 for the hardwood?  I assume these are dowels you would use to step on or pull on to stretch?

 

What about the very top dowel that's off set that you would hold onto for leg raises?

[Mark Schoenhard]

3 hours ago, Kevin Easton said:

 

Interesting.

I am just starting on Foundations 1, so I am not too sure what lies ahead in regards to the need for stall bars.  Using a combination of poplar and hardwood dowels may be an interesting way to save some cash.  Any particular reason you picked dowels 3, 4, 5, and 6 for the hardwood?  I assume these are dowels you would use to step on or pull on to stretch?

 

What about the very top dowel that's off set that you would hold onto for leg raises?

Nice work on starting Foundations, building stall bars proves your intentions.  You will discover why those lower rungs need to be strong.

My top dowel is poplar and works well.  I thought I would need oak there as well, but this has not been the case.  If you have the resources, choose the stronger wood.

[Glen Eames]

Mark, since you seem to have some knowledge on this just curious as to what your thoughts are in regards to finishing the bars with a stain/poly clear coat.  Too sticky?  Or does it help them hold up better?  Strength shouldn't be too much of an issue I have 1.5" oak dowels.  Thanks.

[Mark Schoenhard]

My knowledge is limited as the only set of stall bars I have ever used is the one I constructed and I did not apply any finish.  I like the feel of natural wood in my hands.  Perhaps someone can chime in that has used both types.