Scott Jelsma Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Here is my final finished product: There are a lot of excellent posts on this forum of homemade stall bars. I thought I would add mine just as another example for anyone building their own. I don't think there is any "best" design; everyone has to build what fits their personal needs, requirements, budget, and building skills. Also, I will admit that I have access to quite a few tools. You could build stall bars with a lot fewer tools, but some of the additional tools make the job easier. Materials: I chose plywood for the uprights because of its price and strength. I used "cabinet grade" plywood from Home Depot. This is one area that I would change if I were doing it again. High quality birch plywood with a Grade of "B/BB" would be a better option. It has a higher quality thicker veneer and fewer "voids" than the plywood I used. While I am generally happy with my end result, I think using a higher grade birch plywood would have been a nicer end product with more of a furniture grade aesthetic appearance. I chose to use 1 3/8" Hickory dowels for the bars. Hickory is an incredibly strong wood and I wanted to be confident that the dowels would not break. For reference, here is a copy of a chart I found online with the relative strengths of different hardwoods: Plans: These are the dimensions I used. For a PDF file of the above image, Click here for StallBar_Plans . Top Section Template: For a PDF of the above image, Click here for StallBar_Top_Template. After ripping the plywood, I traced the top template onto the plywood. Cutting out top section. Ripping final dimension. Cut and ready to glue together. Gluing. Clamping. Sanding. Uprights ready for finishing. 1/4" round-over on the upright pieces. 1/4" round-over on the back nailer boards. Notch out the back of the uprights for the nailer boards and also for a notch for the baseboard that is on the wall where I will be installing them. Notches completed. Drill the 1 3/8" dowel holes with a forstner drill bit. Pre-drill for screws to go through the back of the uprights into the dowels to prevent them from turning. This hole was drilled to be slightly larger than the screw threads. Cut dowels and nailer boards to length (72"). After staining the uprights with a natural oil stain and also applying three coats of polyurethane, everything is ready to assemble. (NOTE: I left the dowels completely natural with no stain or polyurethane). Some of the dowels were VERY tight in the holes and almost impossible to push all the way through the center upright. To make it a little easier to insert, I LIGHTLY sanded the hole with a 1" drum sander on my drill. Counter sink for 3 1/2" screws. Hickory dowels were then predrilled for the screws (hickory is prone to splitting so pre-drill is required). Ready to be screwed. Assembly completed. 4 40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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