Programming in Climbing with GST

@Suzanna McGee your more than welcome! 

@Christopher Hancox oh ya, tons of world class climbing that is way over my head hahaha. just getting started, V3 kicks my ass V1-V2 bouldering problems is more of my sweet spot. Most bouldering problems outside are stupid hard and not beneficial for my current abilities, I feel next summer will be the time where I really start to dabble in outside climbing. 

 Gonna go do some indoor sport climbing for the first time this weekend, should be a good one  

Bouldering problem circuits are a great way to repeat the same moves over and over without the monotony of climbing the same route over and over.

There's a practice where I live (might be more widespread, but I've not heard of it elsewhere), of spending the late summer and early fall season building work capacity, endurance and a boatload of technique practice by building up to doing 12x 5.12 routes in a day.  You start with one route, get it dialed, and then every session starts by climbing all the routes that you have dialed before starting work on the next route to add to the circuit.  It's grueling and super awesome.

On 8/17/2017 at 11:47 AM, Christopher Hancox said:

 

A very general rule I found useful in climbing is, you don't need to think about regular hang boarding or campusing until you can climb at least 6c/7a, simply because almost all moves below that grade don't require the high stress finger strength hangboard/campusing trains.

how does 6c/7a correlate to the 5. scale Today I was climbing 5.9 well and some 5.10 & 5.10+ but 5.9 plus was a better place for me to work on technique while still taxing my grip rather than just muscling my way through problems. 

6c = 5.11b, 6c+ = 5.11c, 7a = 5.11d.

Here's a link to grade comparisons in sport and boulder. https://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades/

Good work on getting some 5.10s on your first go BTW!!

@Christopher Hancox Appreciate the feed back, thanks!!

- this is me climbing my first 5.10c after spending about 6 weeks on just 5.9 dialing in technique and building some hand strength.  figured id post it on here cause I know there  a lot of really good climbers in this forum that might be able to give me feedback. I was curious if there is any obvious technique errors that I could clean up. 

I know this forum isnt geared towards climbing form checks but thought Id see what you guys have to say  

Nice work dude! Looked like you cruised it. 

I am no climbing coach, so this advise is purely from experience. It's pretty general advise rather than move by move analysis, but it definately applies if your just starting out.

Try to be more precise with foot placements. A good way to train this is to make each placement as quite as possible. Also think about which part of the shoe to use and how it's going to move whilst it's on the hold. (Outside edge, inside edge, big toe. Rotation, pulling, pushing)

Use the rotation you have in your hips and shoulders. Try not to be square on to the wall. Most moves can be made a lot easier by twisting your hips and letting your engaged arm stay straight, whilst reaching up with the other. Twisting can also help with loading the hand hold in the optimum direction.

Watch the top end climbers at your wall. Watch how they move and try to apply it to a climb you are familiar with. Make videos, and check to compare your body shapes to theirs.

Hope that helps,

Chris

Sick work, Ryan! Good job. 

@Christopher Hancox This is all very helpful advise and will keep it in the back of my head next time I climb. 

Thanks!