Stephen Hepner Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Has anyone constructed stall bars with 2x4 pine sides? Will that be strong enough? thanks!stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldenEagle Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Don't use Pine for the structural rigidity of your stall bars. Pine is really soft wood For structural rigidity I used 2 standard framing 2x4x8 and oak dowel rods (1.25 x 36) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen Eames Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Don't use Pine for the structural rigidity of your stall bars. Pine is really soft wood For structural rigidity I used 2 standard framing 2x4x8 and oak dowel rods (1.25 x 36)What are your 2x4's made out of? Just curious because most framing 2x4's you get at any Home Depot or Lowe's are in fact pine (or other coniferous varieties) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldenEagle Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 What are your 2x4's made out of? Just curious because most framing 2x4's you get at any Home Depot or Lowe's are in fact pine (or other coniferous varieties)I bought two heat treated framing studs for the structure of my stall bars. If I make another set or replace the current studs I will use oak. The stall bars you the see in picture above are 7'6"(228.6cm) I spent about 156USD 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Hepner Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 If I make another set or replace the current studs I will use oak.If I may ask, any particular reason? Are the current ones showing signs of stress (ie starting to crack) or would it be more for appearance reasons? Reason Im asking is I have 8' 2x4 studs on hand and Im aiming for low cost, not appearance. However, if they arent strong enough, Ill just go with 2 layers worth of .75" thick sanded plywood and bond them together. Id rather avoid doing that. For the rungs, Im looking at the 1.375" x 72" poplar dowels that Lowes sells for <$10 which would be the bulk of the expense. stephen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Yiatras Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 I used 2x 8x8 which worked awesome . So easy to offset the top. Plus I extended the very top out even further. I used schedule80 on the bottom rungs. Problem is the pvc bends when I stand on it If anyone ever breaks I will replace with 1"5/8 poplar dowel. I have that at the very top offset rung and that does not bend at all. The rest of my rungs are oak. Total cost was about 106$ to build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Hepner Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 Good to hear that. I was originally thinking of using 2x6s. Do the deeper sides cause any problems? All the pictures/plans Ive seen appear to be using the ~4" depth so I figured there was a reason for that. stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Hepner Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 So I went to Home Depot today to look at lumber. Considering what they are charging for suitable .75" plywood, using oak wouldnt cost all that much more. stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldenEagle Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 If I may ask, any particular reason? Are the current ones showing signs of stress (ie starting to crack) or would it be more for appearance reasons? No, the wood is less than year old after it was stocked. Using Oak would be for primary structural reasons and appearance as a secondary reason. If I went for appearance and structural reasons I would use mahogany Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now