Offshoot of this thread.
Does it matter how wide stall bars are? I know traditionally they're 3-4 feet wide, but I was planning to make some about shoulder width apart. Would that create any problems for me?
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Stall bar width
Started by Bipocni, December 9, 2013 · 31 Replies · 19,391 Views
Width should be from elbow to end of fingers + a fist I believe. Or it could be just to fingers...I forget the official, but I'm sure someone will drop it off shortly.
Bump.
i cut my dowels to specifically 36inches and not extra, so mine arent exactly 3ft wide and it doesnt hamper me in any way.
what exactly are you going to make? i got wind that its freestanding, right?
KeilaniG said:i cut my dowels to specifically 36inches and not extra, so mine arent exactly 3ft wide and it doesnt hamper me in any way.
what exactly are you going to make? i got wind that its freestanding, right?
I'm going to have P-bars attached to the top of the stall bars, so they'd be about 20 inches wide.
have a drawing you can attach? kind of hard to say.Bipocni said:I'm going to have P-bars attached to the top of the stall bars, so they'd be about 20 inches wide.
i made my stall bars that way because in the future i'd make an attachable parallel bar extension that i can also drape a box like frame to use as a RLL station
I think that just shoulder width wide is going to be very limiting for you. There is no reason that I can see that the stall bars and parallel bars need to be the same width.
Cole Dano said:I think that just shoulder width wide is going to be very limiting for you. There is no reason that I can see that the stall bars and parallel bars need to be the same width.
The whole thing is going to be a freestanding structure. I figured it would be easier (and cheaper) to have the stall bars merge with the p-bars, rather than have the p-bars attached on top. I suppose it doesn't make too much difference though.
Do you think that 70cm wide is enough? It's around 20cm wider than my shoulders.Cole Dano said:I think that just shoulder width wide is going to be very limiting for you. There is no reason that I can see that the stall bars and parallel bars need to be the same width.
I'm having them made of metal, but I don't have much space and have to reduce the width.
Also, in what way would it be limiting? For the main uses I can think (leg lifts,reverse leg lifts, side lever and flexibility), we usually don't need wider than shoulder width
Cole Dano said:I think that just shoulder width wide is going to be very limiting for you. There is no reason that I can see that the stall bars and parallel bars need to be the same width.
Romulo said:Also, in what way would it be limiting?
Anyone have an answer here? Without breaking any NDA's, is there any reason why a narrow grip wouldn't work?
Too narrow will cause you issues with some of the new work forthcoming in F3, F4 and H2.
Yours in Fitness,
Coach Sommer
Thank you Coach! So the minimum would be 90cm? 70-75cm would be already limiting? Even if I could manage to make it a bit wider, I'm afraid there will be elements in the coming work that require space beyond the stall bars width itself ( like flexibility work with straddle legs)
Coach Sommer said:Too narrow will cause you issues with some of the new work forthcoming in F3, F4 and H2.
Yours in Fitness,
Coach Sommer
Exactly what I was fishing for. Thank you Coach.
Oh, and sorry for doubting you coach Dano.
Coach Sommer said:Too narrow will cause you issues with some of the new work forthcoming in F3, F4 and H2.
Yours in Fitness,
Coach Sommer
Would bars with an adjustable width be better for these various (and mysterious 
) elements? Or will shoulder width plus 4-5 inches per side by sufficient for everything?
Bipocni said:Exactly what I was fishing for. Thank you Coach.
Oh, and sorry for doubting you coach Dano.
So what width did you settle on exactly?
When I build my bars my current plan is to bolt them into concrete so I want to be sure before I set them up. 
edit: Wow, brain fart, I was convinced this thread was about the width between parallel bars. 
Just ignore me, nothing to see here... move along. 
An example of width limitation restricting elements could be the straddle position the athlete does at 1:48
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ychdzz6UEA
Since I have limited space to install the stall bars, I'm worried about this width limitation, maybe besides the bars width itself, another problem is that the lack of clearance aside the bars would limit moves like this:
Sorry, the site didn't allow embedding the above picture, so I just put the link.
Please do share some images/ drawings or links of this as I am considering DIY Wall Stall bars with
- Pull up bar on top
The following I'd love to hear how you are visualizing them.
- Some Parallel Bar extension/ attachment that can be added?
- I cant visualize the RLL thing you mentioned.
Keilani Gutierrez said:have a drawing you can attach? kind of hard to say.
i made my stall bars that way because in the future i'd make an attachable parallel bar extension that i can also drape a box like frame to use as a RLL station
Coach the standard ones seem to be 34/ 36" i.e. 85/90 cm - Is that a decent width for a home/ DIY wall stall bar?
http://www.artimexsport.com/en/produse.php
Coach Sommer said:Too narrow will cause you issues with some of the new work forthcoming in F3, F4 and H2.
Yours in Fitness,
Coach Sommer
crashnburn said:Please do share some images/ drawings or links of this as I am considering DIY Wall Stall bars with
- Pull up bar on top
The following I'd love to hear how you are visualizing them.
- Some Parallel Bar extension/ attachment that can be added?
- I cant visualize the RLL thing you mentioned.
Coach the standard ones seem to be 34/ 36" i.e. 85/90 cm - Is that a decent width for a home/ DIY wall stall bar?
i would do this home project again to make a separate set of stall bars or simply make one long(wide) enough to put another beam in the middle and use this for the elements coach points to that appear in H2, especially.
Keilani Gutierrez said:i would do this home project again to make a separate set of stall bars or simply make one long(wide) enough to put another beam in the middle and use this for the elements coach points to that appear in H2, especially.
So if we are thinking of building a 36 inch wide stall bar, would you recommend going ahead and just building 2 of them, side by side? So, 72 inches wide with the one verticle in the middle?
If you have the means that would be great, not necessary but nice.
Personally if I were going to do a double wide, I wouldn't go over 32" between rails. The only reason for having extra wide is more space, which you gain by doing a double wide. Keep it under 32" and you don't have to compromise strength.
My stall bars are 30.5" and even then I feel like I wouldn't want anymore flex in them than I already have.
Good to know. Would it make any sense to have the bottom 3 or 4 rungs as oak (for greater stability), with the middle and upper rungs being a lighter wood? I do not have the knowledge to know what skills can be done (or where the most stability will be needed) on the stall bars down the line.
Also can you someone do an inverted straddle on 30.5" or 32" width?
Thanks
I've used pine on mine and they're outside. i don't practice the SL elements, but i've tried pulling or lowering to SL and they don't creak.
I also dead hang, HLL, RC iM, Mn iM and no signs of not wanting to play nice.
I'm considering the second set for convenience, not out of absolute need. if I wanted to place my feet on the wall, i could but simply prefer donating / selling mine to remake a slightly wider, double stall bar. if i didn't have the choice, i wouldnt sweat it. 
I wouldn't mix the woods on the rungs, just get a good quality hardwood for all.
If you have a double bar you can just straddle across them, one foot on one one on the other, basically it's a 60"+ stall bar.
Over the past year I bought some Oak 1-1/2" x 6' dowels from Baird Brothers with the hope of having double stall bars. I was going to go 33.75" wide between the uprights and use some high gloss floor polyurethane to coat them and help strengthen them (which I've read mixed reviews on). Now after reading Cole Dano's post I'm considering going a few inches shorter, which would fit the space I have better anyways. One of these days I'm gonna take a few days off work and build these darn things....
Cole Dano said:I wouldn't mix the woods on the rungs, just get a good quality hardwood for all.
If you have a double bar you can just straddle across them, one foot on one one on the other, basically it's a 60"+ stall bar.
For double bars and construction:
Does it make sense to have a ~2x4 middle upright.
Then drill press ~1/2" slot on each side for each rung?
Or, drill right through the upright, placing 2 ends of 2 rungs together (this would probably need a small screw in each to stop spinning.
You could also just run one dowel all the way across.