Stefan Hinote Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 I pretty much just followed this: http://gymnasticsstrength.blogspot.com/2009/01/stall-bars.html(2) 2x6x8(2) 2x4x8 (got 2 so I could cut one to make the top rung offset)(9) 1 1/4" x 36" dowelsOne 1-1/4" forstner bit: http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D1009-1-1-Forstner-Bit/dp/B0000DD0IN/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1360986601&sr=1-1&keywords=steelex+d1009 Marked the bit with a sharpie for the correct depth since I'm not using a drill press, and used a business card to check. Sanded it down, and sealed with wax finish. Too anxious and tired at the end of the day to stain it! Hope it gives people some ideas for some basic stall bars. Oh and excuse my dirty wall, hs work. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quick Start Test Smith Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Awesome job, stefanhinote! Thanks so much for posting this. I will use it as a guide when I make mine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Hinote Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Awesome job, stefanhinote! Thanks so much for posting this. I will use it as a guide when I make mine! Glad I could help. Lowes has cheaper poplar dowels 1-1/4"x48" than the oak 1-1/4"x36" that Home Depot carries. I ended up buying all the poplar dowels they had, and had to buy the oak for rest, so the total was 80 bucks verse ~50 if they had had more poplar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Whaley Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Excellent work and thanks for the pics and details!All the F1 DIY has me dying to build parallel bars in the backyard this Spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Haldeman Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 nice job! Looks great! Thanks for posting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Bodestyne Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Looks great; thanks for posting all the intermediate photos, too. (c: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Nagler Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 wow, awesome job! thanks for sharing. I have two questions: 1. How did you anchor it to the wall?2. What did you do on the 4th and 5th picture and why? Maybe it's because I'm too blind right now, but i don't see it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREDERIC DUPONT Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Very nice, good craftsmanship with little equipment Well done! Pics 4, 5 & 6 are drilling marker holes on the jambs so they are evenly centered on each jamb and at the same level.These holes will also be used to drive the screws that secure the dowels in their socket. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Hinote Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 wow, awesome job! thanks for sharing. I have two questions: 1. How did you anchor it to the wall?2. What did you do on the 4th and 5th picture and why? Maybe it's because I'm too blind right now, but i don't see it I haven't mounted it to the wall yet, but I'll be running 2-3 2x6 boards across the wall on studs, and then I'll use L-brackets between the stallbars and boards on wall. I'll take pictures once it's mounted. As to the 2. Fred covered that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
u3er Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Looks great! I am currently trying to design a set of removable door-frame stall bars and have a question about the uppermost rung:What function does it serve to have it 'pushed out' from the rest of the rungs? Is it necessary to do this or could they all be mounted flush? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Hinote Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Looks great! I am currently trying to design a set of removable door-frame stall bars and have a question about the uppermost rung:What function does it serve to have it 'pushed out' from the rest of the rungs? Is it necessary to do this or could they all be mounted flush? Thanks!I'm not super familiar with all the exercises done on stall bars, but take hanging leg raises for example. If the top rung wasn't offset, and your hanging, your forearms would be pushed against the lower rungs, and with the offset that pressure is relieved. I believe in an earlier stall bar post Coach mentioned that the top rung should be offset 2-3". Now if yours are removable than you may just be able to remove one of the upper rungs, but I'm not certain on this so further research is a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Hinote Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 wow, awesome job! thanks for sharing. I have two questions: 1. How did you anchor it to the wall?2. What did you do on the 4th and 5th picture and why? Maybe it's because I'm too blind right now, but i don't see it Mounted the boards to three studs, and used L-brackets from the stallbars to boards. I'll probably add a few more L-brackets inside as well just to be safe. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ales Glas Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Mounted the boards to three studs, and used L-brackets from the stallbars to boards. I'll probably add a few more L-brackets inside as well just to be safe.probably a stupid question, but... how long screws did you use when mounting the bars to boards? Do the screws go through the wood and into the wall, or are they short enough to fit into the wooden board only? Would that provide enough depth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Hinote Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 probably a stupid question, but... how long screws did you use when mounting the bars to boards? Do the screws go through the wood and into the wall, or are they short enough to fit into the wooden board only? Would that provide enough depth?The screws used on the L-brackets between the stall-bars and boards on wall were 1" - 1 1/4" They go through the wood boards, and slightly into the drywall (dry wall offering no strength). If I was to do it again I would probably use wood boards with 1" - 1/4" thickness instead of 3/4" (I had it laying around), but so far it's been solid with my weight (145 lbs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ales Glas Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 The screws used on the L-brackets between the stall-bars and boards on wall were 1" - 1 1/4" They go through the wood boards, and slightly into the drywall (dry wall offering no strength). If I was to do it again I would probably use wood boards with 1" - 1/4" thickness instead of 3/4" (I had it laying around), but so far it's been solid with my weight (145 lbs).Could the same procedure be used on brick wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keilani Gutierrez Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 I mounted my stall bars with L anchors on a brick wall. no problem i think they were.....1-1/2 or 1' screws. one of the two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Hinote Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Could the same procedure be used on brick wall?As Keilani said you can, L-brackets straight to the wall, but you need to use the correct concrete/masonry screws, and that's about the extent of my knowledge on the matter--good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Glas Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 THANK YOU!!!! Fantastic work! How far apart are the rungs/bars from each other? 6 inches? 8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Nutt Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 On 2/16/2013 at 9:27 AM, u3er said: Looks great! I am currently trying to design a set of removable door-frame stall bars and have a question about the uppermost rung: What function does it serve to have it 'pushed out' from the rest of the rungs? Is it necessary to do this or could they all be mounted flush? Thanks! Would LOVE to see what you come up with for removable stall bar. As a renter and not a homeowner, I'd love to build something like that to hang over a door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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