Building Stall Bars

Hello there,

I have been contemplating building a set of stall bars.

Primarily because the stall bars, that are available in the facility where I train are of sub-par quality, and also not even securely mounted in the wall!

I have seen a few very nice home builds, on this site.

https://www.gymnasticbodies.com/forum/topic/4670-homemade-stall-bars-a-basement-project/

What I have gleaned from the DIY descriptions, and elsewhere, is that:

• a proper stall bar is about 8" tall, 3" wide.
• The number of dowels can by modified according to the needs.
• The dowels should be made from a hardwood with ash being number one, but beach, hickory or poplar being contenders. The main issue would be using a first grade wood, with out any gnarls. 
• The Dowels should be around 1 and 3/8" (35mm) - but I am guessing that anything between 33-42mm could do?

My questions are the following:

• Should the dowels be oval in shape, or is round acceptable?
• What are the size range for dowel diameter? ( Should I opt for 32mm or 42mm? ) 
• I have noted that there are two basic stall bar designs, #1 - with the dowels spaced with eqi-distance and one dowel off set at the top. #2 - another design has a "hole" at the top, in the dowel spacing, allowing freedom from pressure on the head and neck, when hanging from the off set dowels. - I am opting for option #2, since the stall bars I have worked with so far, because my bodily proportion has caused a dowel to smash my neck in while doing hanging leg lifts.
• Is there a standard or accepted lay-out for design #2 or is it build to fit?
• I would like to be able to do Nordic Hamstring Curls / Natural Leg Curls from the stall bar, any obvious modifications to the design with this in mind?

regards,

Frederik

1. round is good I think mine were 1-1/2? I'm not heavy (165lb at heaviest) and the top rung only so slightly bends under my weight and they're Pine, im not versed in wood quality but when I got it, the dowels weren't of the highest quality. I think the entire set up cost around $128 including Gas $. 1-1/2 is enough for my grip though. I think it would feel wierd if it were skinnier(for me, at least, i don't like pressure focused on my finger joints)

2. i'm not familiar with mm measurements, but my dowels are 1-1/2 

3. i don't exactly know the sensation of having a dowel to my neck but i do bet it sucks! I don't have an off-set bar on my set up because I didn't do the math correctly whilst cutting a certain portion of wood, so my quick fix was this. easy removal and the change from 5in(if im not mistaken) to 10in free space leaves enough room to hang comfortably and not have pressure on the forearms.

4. i haven't really gotten around to building it, since im not at the level yet but im planning to make a frame for Dips, kind of like a parallel set up and make that 3ft-5ft long. then whenever I need to do leg hypers, drape a box frame over a portion of the dowels. with straps to secure it. as for the hamstring curls, you can dial in the bottom height of the lowest dowel to be able to stick your feet under and use it as an anchor.  

I used oak dowels, 1 1/2 inches thick.  I think round is fine. it would be very difficult to make your own with oval wood and i'm not sure that it would give you any benefits for what we use it for.  I personally wouldn't go thinner than 1 1/2, and i wouldn't go with a soft wood.  Even with oak, the bottom bars will flex a little bit when i stand my full weight on them.  I'm afraid pine would break.  I've even thought that i wished i had put a metal pipe on for the bottom bar just to give a little stronger support.  the hanging bar is plenty strong with 1 1/2 oak.  your dimensions are correct.  I offset the top bar and left a couple bars out below it, not quite to the degree of the picture you referenced, where they left out 4 or so bars it looks like.  It is easy to make. I used 2x6 pine for the uprights (to give me room for the offset of the top bar), pre drilled holes for the oak, sanded it all, and glued/screwed all the dowels in place.  Mine cost me about $150.  It's been a great addition to my workout room in the basement and I'm glad i made it.  

Sound goods,

About the measurements: 32mm is 1 and 1/4" - 43mm is 1 and 11/16".

It seems that it would be difficult to get 1½" (37,5mm) where I live. I think that 32mm is probably too skinny. Especially considering a 3' wide stall bar.

At close to 190lbs, I will need some strength in the stall bars, if nothing else, then just for peace of mind. I have also thought about a metal pipe design - but I think it would be an offence to my aesthetics and to the design in general. I just like wood better.

The issue for me would be to find a source for hardwood of appropriate size, price and quality.

With regards to the design:

• How many dowels do your designs' have? I have seen everything from 10 to 17.
• Any specific measurements for the "dowel-free" hole at the top?

regards,

Frederik

i guess you can go both ways on that one. when you get to the place you'll be purchasing the dowels just grab one and see how it feels

Well, yes - one thing is personal preference ie. feel - another is the actual strength of the wood, I am not so sure that 1 1/4" is strong enough - and at 1 11/16" I think it is pushing into thick bar training.

But I think I have a grasp of most of design issues by now - still if anyone has the spacing for model #2 referenced above that would be great.

regards,

Frederik

I did, but i think i didnt understand exactly what you're asking?

the holes i drilled for the dowels were 5inches from the middle of the dowel to the next middle of the dowel. for the top space, i left out one hole, making the space 10-11in for space. i have no neck issues when playing on the stall bars.

is this what you mean? 

I do not think I was explaining myself very clearly.

Stall-bars, what I was trying to ask was the distance between A and B - also the distance between C and B. Which is measurements I have not been able to glean elsewhere.

Regards,

Frederik

check this drawing out, it will answer your questions.

http://www.artimex.ro/images/spalier_221.jpg

Thanks!

MT Nordic said:

check this drawing out, it will answer your questions.

http://www.artimex.ro/images/spalier_221.jpg

Those measures are written in milimeters right ?

Paf said:

Those measures are written in milimeters right ?

Yes, the measurements are written in millimeters.

2,300cm(23m/75.46ft) would be really tall for a set of stall bars.

2,300mm (2.3m/7.5ft) - 2,438mm(2.44m/8ft) is a fairly common height for stall bars.