Comparing duration for static exercises to reps for dynamic exercises

Does anyone have any papers on optimal duration for static exercises?

 

For dynamic exercises, less than 3 reps is neuromuscular response (recruitment), 3-6 reps optimal for hypertrophy, and more than 6 reps optimal for endurance. 3 sets is best.

 

For stretching, both the time a stretch is held, and the number of times per session a stretch is attempted seem to be almost irrelevant. Stretching often and consistently are far more important.

 

For static strength exercises I can't find anything.

 

What I'm trying to improve is my one handed hang off a fingerboard (like this -

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/products/beastmaker-2000-series).

 

To use a pull-up bar as an example, I can hang one handed from the bar for 40 seconds. I think this is too long for an effective exercise, so want to add weight and hang for say 7 seconds 3 times, adding enough weight to fail on the 3rd rep.

 

But is 7 seconds duration correct for a static exercise? Is there any research to indicate the optimal static hanging time?

In BtGB, you were supposed to move on to the next progression once you could currently hold the current one comfortably for 15 seconds, perhaps that could be useful? On the other hand, a lot of water has passed under the bridge since then, and perhaps it is better to began by accumulating volume with long holds, then gradually intensifying holds be increasing weight and decreasing time?

It might be a bit skewed, but if you look at the tempo of dynamic movements, you could get an idea of static holds. For example, looking at a 202 tempo, 2 seconds on the eccentric, no pause, and 2 seconds on the concentric you get 4 seconds for the rep. This is how I've used some of my static programming.

"A good rule of thumb for isometrics is that every repetition in the workout counts for 3 seconds of isometrics." -Steven Low

Fingerboard training follows different rules from general isometrics like we do here.  For the record, anything less than 15 seconds is strength building, 15-60 is hypertrophy and above 60 is endurance (from memory, don't quote me on that.)

 

With fingerboard training, you don't ever want to hold a hold for more than 15 seconds (especially with two finger or one finger training) but instead you want to work 'encores' where you would hold for 7 seconds, 3 seconds off, and repeat for 6-10 rounds.  This mimics the kind of duration you will have to use while you're climbing.  You also don't want to hold for less than 3 seconds, because you seriously risk blowing out your tendons.  take fingerboard training slowly.  Always remember to warm up with easier holds as well.

 

Oh, and don't go to failure.  Seriously dude, it's your fingers.  They're tiny little things with muscles attached over a foot away.  Don't be a fingerboard hero.

 

For the purposes of full disclosure, I should mention I'm not a climber, have never climbed, and possibly never will.  But I did quite a bit of research on fingerboards a while ago, because I plan to get into it once I've mastered towel hangs.  I've lost the links, but a simple google search on fingerboard training will tell you everything I just told you here, and it's the kind of advice given out by world champion boulderers, so if you don't want to trust me, trust them.

 

Edit: Oh, Nigel, didn't you mention in another thread that you don't have H1 yet?  I think this is a mistake.  The wrist prep would be perfect for you, being a climber and all...

I was told about this book regarding climbing: http://www.scribd.com/doc/67205323/Training-for-Climbing

 

Chapter 5 and 6 deal with training for climbing (page 80 onwards for finger training). Hope that helps.