Front Lever on pinkies' tip

Started by Adrien, July 15, 2013 · 9 Replies · 3,990 Views

Adrien

Rock climber doing a front lever hanging from the tip of his pinky fingers!

 

At 1:07 in there
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzoJ9W-6vUY
 

That same guy can do one arm chins on a single pinky.... I hope it's only a matter of time before he gets the one arm front lever on a single pinky :)
 

FredInChina

Nice video, thank you :)

 

(The credits at the end mention Ido Portal : Guru Extraordinaire :facepalm::D:facepalm:  :D:facepalm:  :D:facepalm:  :D  )

Adrien

For those interested in climbing, the video also the (supposedly) longest campus move (dynamic pullup) on small rungs (he pulls from rung 1 to reach for rung 9).

B1214N
Adrien said:

That same guy can do one arm chins on a single pinky.... I hope it's only a matter of time before he gets the one arm front lever on a single pinky :)

 

It's highly possible that he can already do a OAFL (if we are talking about the sideways variation) because John Gill said that he could do it with a single finger too because he could do OACs with a single finger. I once achieved the sideways OAFL and didn't do that much specific training for it because I found that a strong FL and about 2 reps of OACs has a lot of carry over to the sideways OAFL. I think John Gill also said that he achieved it without specific training due to being very strong at rope climbing and OACs.

Adrien
B1214N said:

It's highly possible that he can already do a OAFL (if we are talking about the sideways variation).

I am pretty sure he can do an OAFL, Jan Hojer is being discussed as the strongest climber in the world right now :)

But pinkies FL (two hands) on that apparatus that only allow a single fingertip in are something quite special as only one climber before him had done it publicly (Rustam Gelmanov).

B1214N

I also seen one street workout athlete who can do a full FL and partial rep of FL row on pinkies.

Adrien

Wow, I'd like to see that. Do you still have a link or a clue to find the video?

B1214N

His name is Matteo Spinazzola. 

At 4:05-4:20 in the following video:

 

He can even do a perfect OAFL with the body facing up.

Adrien

Nice video thanks!

It should be noted though there's a significant difference in grip: Matteo is in false grip over a bar with only the pinky wrapped around (which he prbably doesn't need as in a no handed pullup) so his body weight is resting on his wrist; while the climber is hanging from the last knuckle of his pinkies.

I'd recommend trying a fingerboard at your local climbing gym to see how much leverage your lose for every knuckle you can't use :)

B1214N

Good point. I missed the false grip in the video.