Another homemade stallbar

Awesome job, stefanhinote! Thanks so much for posting this. I will use it as a guide when I make mine!

Patrick Smith said:

Awesome job, stefanhinote! Thanks so much for posting this. I will use it as a guide when I make mine!

Glad I could help.

Lowes has cheaper poplar dowels 1-1/4"x48" than the oak 1-1/4"x36" that Home Depot carries.

I ended up buying all the poplar dowels they had, and had to buy the oak for rest, so the total was 80 bucks verse ~50 if they had had more poplar.

Excellent work and thanks for the pics and details!

All the F1 DIY has me dying to build parallel bars in the backyard this Spring.

nice job!  Looks great!  Thanks for posting

Looks great; thanks for posting all the intermediate photos, too. (c:

wow, awesome job! thanks for sharing.

I have two questions: 

1. How did you anchor it to the wall?

2. What did you do on the 4th and 5th picture and why? Maybe it's because I'm too blind right now, but i don't see it 

Very nice, good craftsmanship with little equipment

Well done!

Pics 4, 5 & 6 are drilling marker holes on the jambs so they are evenly centered on each jamb and at the same level.

These holes will also be used to drive the screws that secure the dowels in their socket.

JN12 said:

wow, awesome job! thanks for sharing.

 

I have two questions: 

 

1. How did you anchor it to the wall?

2. What did you do on the 4th and 5th picture and why? Maybe it's because I'm too blind right now, but i don't see it 

I haven't mounted it to the wall yet, but I'll be running 2-3 2x6 boards across the wall on studs, and then I'll use L-brackets between the stallbars and boards on wall. I'll take pictures once it's mounted.

As to the 2. Fred covered that.

Looks great!

I am currently trying to design a set of removable door-frame stall bars and have a question about the uppermost rung:

What function does it serve to have it 'pushed out' from the rest of the rungs?  Is it necessary to do this or could they all be mounted flush?

Thanks!

A.J. said:

Looks great!

 

I am currently trying to design a set of removable door-frame stall bars and have a question about the uppermost rung:

What function does it serve to have it 'pushed out' from the rest of the rungs?  Is it necessary to do this or could they all be mounted flush?

 

Thanks!

I'm not super familiar with all the exercises done on stall bars, but take hanging leg raises for example. If the top rung wasn't offset, and your hanging, your forearms would be pushed against the lower rungs, and with the offset that pressure is relieved.

I believe in an earlier stall bar post Coach mentioned that the top rung should be offset 2-3".

Now if yours are removable than you may just be able to remove one of the upper rungs, but I'm not certain on this so further research is a good idea.

JN12 said:

wow, awesome job! thanks for sharing.

 

I have two questions: 

 

1. How did you anchor it to the wall?

2. What did you do on the 4th and 5th picture and why? Maybe it's because I'm too blind right now, but i don't see it 

Mounted the boards to three studs, and used L-brackets from the stallbars to boards. I'll probably add a few more L-brackets inside as well just to be safe.

stefanhinote said:

Mounted the boards to three studs, and used L-brackets from the stallbars to boards. I'll probably add a few more L-brackets inside as well just to be safe.

probably a stupid question, but... how long screws did you use when mounting the bars to boards? Do the screws go through the wood and into the wall, or are they short enough to fit into the wooden board only? Would that provide enough depth?

Fit-Bull90 said:

probably a stupid question, but... how long screws did you use when mounting the bars to boards? Do the screws go through the wood and into the wall, or are they short enough to fit into the wooden board only? Would that provide enough depth?

The screws used on the L-brackets between the stall-bars and boards on wall were 1" - 1 1/4"

They go through the wood boards, and slightly into the drywall (dry wall offering no strength).

If I was to do it again I would probably use wood boards with 1" - 1/4" thickness instead of 3/4" (I had it laying around), but so far it's been solid with my weight (145 lbs).

stefanhinote said:

The screws used on the L-brackets between the stall-bars and boards on wall were 1" - 1 1/4"

 

They go through the wood boards, and slightly into the drywall (dry wall offering no strength).

 

If I was to do it again I would probably use wood boards with 1" - 1/4" thickness instead of 3/4" (I had it laying around), but so far it's been solid with my weight (145 lbs).

Could the same procedure be used on brick wall?

I mounted my stall bars with L anchors on a brick wall. no problem

i think they were.....1-1/2 or 1' screws. one of the two

Fit-Bull90 said:

Could the same procedure be used on brick wall?

As Keilani said you can, L-brackets straight to the wall, but you need to use the correct concrete/masonry screws, and that's about the extent of my knowledge on the matter--good luck.

THANK YOU!!!!

Fantastic work!

How far apart are the rungs/bars from each other? 6 inches? 8?

On 2/16/2013 at 9:27 AM, u3er said:

Looks great!

 

I am currently trying to design a set of removable door-frame stall bars and have a question about the uppermost rung:

What function does it serve to have it 'pushed out' from the rest of the rungs?  Is it necessary to do this or could they all be mounted flush?

 

Thanks!

Would LOVE to see what you come up with for removable stall bar. As a renter and not a homeowner, I'd love to build something like that to hang over a door.