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Recovery from strength workouts


dgibbons
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I am training 5-6 days/week for rock climbing. The nature of it is fairly similar to gymnastics practice I think. Short bursts of power at times, "sets" that last up to several minutes.

Currently, I am not doing any easy work, or cardio. Do you guys generally recommend mixing in light jogging to lower cortisol and recover from these strength workouts? Does easy/recovery work have a place in a strength/anaerobic endurance oriented sport?

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Unless you want to jog, I wouldn't reccomend it. Jogging for 20 minutes at a light pace is not really going to burn much fat.

Your regimen is more than likely fairly intense. Producing levels of lactic acid trigger the body into a hormonal state that stimulates gH and burns fat.

Recovery is one of the essentials to strength/endurance gains. If you need to do some jogging or walking or biking to mentally relax or recover, go for it.

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In case You haven't found it already, try reading Eric Horst's articles on trainingforclimbing.com, he pretty much covers the subject :)

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Yeah, I have read his articles. I think he is good for helping beginner climbers get up to a decent level. I think he falls short for climbers that are training for more serious routes.

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Fabio Gutierrez

You might want to look into Mark Twight's writings and documentation of his training for some ideas and inspiration. I'm not sure if you're doing Grade V big walls, alpine routes, or looking to *just* free El Cap and Half Dome in a day, but he's got some great info on training -- http://www.gymjones.com and http://www.marktwight.com.

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Oh yeah, Mark Twight is the man. I love the gym jones website.

Im a sport climber, so the training is much different. My "event" is routes typically between 50-100 feet. They usually take 5-20 minutes or so.

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