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Yet another stall bar dowel question


Donald Cestnik
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Donald Cestnik

Looking to build stall bars and mulling over materials. I weigh between 200 and 210 depending on season so durability is a concern. Pipe is an option but wanted to stay with wood since it warms up quicker in my cold garage. 

 

The choices locally are 1-1/4" oak, 1-1/2" poplar and a slight possibility of finding 2" poplar. From some previous threads it sounds like 1-1/2" poplar from commercial vendors can go 240#. Would the 1-1/4 oak be stronger and would either be sufficient or should I try to source materials through an internet vendor?

 

Also thanks to the previous threads for providing all other information needed for this project.

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Brent Johnson

My stall bar dowels are 1 1/2 inch poplar. I'm only around 150 lbs; for me they seem solid and sufficient. I think dowel diameter size is probably more important for rigidity than oak vs poplar. I'm making some industrial-sized parallettes to more closely mirror the low parallel bars in Handstand 1 and 2. I considered using 2" poplar dowels (they seem bomb-proof) but will go with 1 1/2. What you could do is partially assemble your bars and test the strength of one 1 1/2" dowel to dangle from, before you commit fully. If you don't like 1 1/2", I think 2" will be plenty strong for anyone, and you can just over drill your 1 1/2 holes to two inches for the final product.

Brent

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Donald Cestnik

That's a pretty good idea. Next weekend I'll put together some 36" paralletes then try standing and bouncing on them. If they're good to go I'll go forward with 1-1/2" poplar. If not will have set that works until getting inverted.

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Keilani Gutierrez

i personally have 1-7/16 on mine because they didn't have 1-1/2 that day and they're pine. i've done a few inverted holds, even putting my COG far away from the stallbars and have never heard not a noise of complaint. i weight 160lb at my heaviest and it's outside and the weather has already shown what can happen to it in some months cause i didn't complete it and later on added  two dowels on the bottom. still as reliable as the day i put it up :) 

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Joshua Slocum

i personally have 1-7/16 on mine because they didn't have 1-1/2 that day and they're pine. i've done a few inverted holds, even putting my COG far away from the stallbars and have never heard not a noise of complaint. i weight 160lb at my heaviest and it's outside and the weather has already shown what can happen to it in some months cause i didn't complete it and later on added  two dowels on the bottom. still as reliable as the day i put it up :)

Paint it already! You don't want your bars to rot!

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Brent Johnson

Yes, seal your bars. I used Minwax indoor/outdoor Spar urethane clear semi-gloss from Home Depot on mine, 4 coats. I was hesitant but like the way the sealed dowels feel.

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Keilani Gutierrez

Paint it already! You don't want your bars to rot!

I REFUSE! ....okay, i just haven't gotten around to it. :P

 

 

Yes, seal your bars. I used Minwax indoor/outdoor Spar urethane clear semi-gloss from Home Depot on mine, 4 coats. I was hesitant but like the way the sealed dowels feel.

(insert joke on how i like the feel of natural wood here) and thanks for being so specific on which one you use, i would have probably hated myself if i chose something and didn't like the feel. changing grips makes riding my bike feel different in many ways, rings as well but don't really have anything to go on with stall bars. i'll paint a spare dowel I have and see how it goes. #thumbsup
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pls dont paint stalbars with any synthetic paint. you are touching it. my choice: i am a carpenter and i use oil and wax if need it, for such a nice product like stalbars.

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Keilani Gutierrez

one of the alternative my carpenter neighbor gave me in place of paint. thanks for the confirmation, strme :) i prefer a natural look and feel without too much alteration

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Donald Cestnik

Well I mocked up 1-1/2 poplar parallette and attempted to stand on it. No way it would support 200#+ with confidence. Guess it will have to be pipe.

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